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4 Steps To Removing Any Account On Credit Report FAST

🔮 Schedule a call at my740.com for a credit sweep. Today we're talking about the 4 different steps steps to remove any account from a credit report fast credit report fast. This can be used to remove charge offs and enclosed account and remove collections and with collections and late payments. This can be used to remove virtually any negative item from a credit report and it's going to make it come off as fast as it possibly and legally can. If you would like to learn more make sure to check out the rest of my channel and the other 800 videos that I have. If you'd like to learn how to remove closed accouns from your credit report or even about removing charge offs you can head to https://vault.my740.com or check out l offer at https://lynxshort.com/offers You may now check out my video call options including a credit report review and "Ask Me How" services at https://superpeer.com/askkristin SUBSCRIBE TO MY CHANNEL 🔮 https://www.youtube.com/c/Ask-Kristin?sub_confirmation=1 ✨ Check out all 3 credit reports and scores with the same credit monitoring I show in my videos and use for my clients with SmartCredit https://smartcredit.com/VargasConsulting/ or IdentityIQ: ✨ https://member.identityiq.com/help-you-to-save-money.aspx?offercode=431134PT 🧙‍♀️ GET HELP WITH YOUR CREDIT JOURNEY DIY awesome free tools, tutorials and downloads - https://vault.my740.com 🦸‍♀️ DFY credit sweep service free consultation 🦸‍♀️ https://my740.com Let's jump on a call and see if I can help! ⭐️ Video Notes:

Today we are talking about the four steps that you need to know so that you can remove virtually any account from your credit report. Okay? And this doesn't matter if it's a collection of foreclosure or repossession, a charter fleet payment inquiry, I don't care what it is, if you have negative items on your credit report, then these are the four steps that you are going to need to know to be able to remove them. And hopefully, if this did not mirror it, and you can actually read what I have on the board behind me. But if you want to learn how to remove in depth, right, how to remove any negative item from your credit report, make sure that you subscribe to my actual channel so that you can learn all the things, increasing scores and removing negative items. But again, today, we're going over the four steps that you need to know okay, and you're going to want to make sure that you stay to the end for number four, because this is going to be the most important stuff to this entire process. Okay, and make sure that you hit that like and we are going to get started. But first thing at the top of the board, you're going to see a link. So if a credit sweep is something that you've been thinking about, and you don't really know what to do about it, or how to do it, make sure that you head over to my seven forty.com and schedule a call with me and I will see if I can personally do it for you. But without further ado, let's get to excuse me step number one. Step number one is very, very important. But again, it's not as important as step number four, the very first thing that you need to be doing to ensure that you can successfully remove your negative items. Again, regardless of the negative item type collections, foreclosures, repossessions, charge offs is where you are obtaining the information from right. So if you are disputing online, if you are calling in if you are grabbing reports from annual credit report, these are not the way that you are going to get the best information to prove an accuracy and violation. Now, that's all we're talking about, right? We're not talking about different methods and whatever we're talking about actually disputing and removing them this way with these four steps. So the sites that you can use for this method are going to be identity IQ, which you can find the link down in the description, my score IQ, which is genetically the same as identity IQ and smart credit. Okay, smart credit and identity IQ links, caveat, affiliate links are going to be down in the description, okay, so if you smash that like and you watch this entire live, make sure that you go down there if you haven't gotten a credit report yet, and you at least want to see where your scores are and what your credit report looks like, and even how you can implement these. Okay, so that is step number one. The second part of Step number one is extracting all your negative items, okay? So we don't care about your positive accounts, if they don't have any late payments or not in collection, we don't care about those, we're going to take every single negative item that you have on your credit report, and we're going to just list them, okay, so all your collections, all your charge offs, all your repos, right? But you want to leave enough room for you to go and find all those inaccuracies. Okay, so step number one, use identity IQ, or my score IQ or, you know, smart credit, how to bring it right there. And the second part, pull all your inaccuracies and categorize them, you're actually going to stick all of your inaccuracies into this pyramid. Okay, so let's just talk about this pyramid real quick. And if you have been following me for the eight years that I've been here on YouTube, we're actually going on nine years, so happy anniversary to me. So if you've followed me, since forever ago, then you'll have seen this pyramid before, but it's really, really, really simple. Okay, each element of your account belongs in a specific place on this pyramid. Okay. And again, I hope that you can see this the right way. And that's not mirrored because to me, it's backwards. So at the top, the only things that you should be disputing that are going to give you the best possible chance for removal are going to be your violations, right? Your blatant inaccuracies. A blatant inaccuracy example would be three different balances three different past dues, okay? Something like that. You're also going to have here, date last paid. This is the date that stipulates when your account will naturally fall off your credit report. So if it is not the same from report to report, then your account is going to come off on three totally different dates and potentially three totally different years. Right. And we don't want that. So, date last paid date last active date last reporting or status update date. And notice of dispute, okay. And again, make sure that you stay till number four, because this is going to be the most important step, and it has to do with the notice of dispute. If it's not one of these, then it's actually going to fall into either the middle or the bottom. And your likelihood of deletion is going to decrease by a huge percentage as you go down this pyramid. Okay? So categorically, you want to make sure that you're staying right here at the top, okay? Because you need to make sure that you are giving yourself the best possible chance of removal, right? Who the heck ever said that these things are easy to come off your credit report, whoever that person is, wherever they are, they have absolutely no idea what they're talking about. And they're only telling you these things so that they can get into your pocket, I am never going to tell you the things that you want to hear no, I've been here eight years, again, 800 videos proving that there is a very specific way to do this. And we're gonna get to step number one, is it too? Okay? Step number two, you are going to find for each and every single account, you violation or that inaccuracy. Okay, so let's just say that I have Capital One. So I have a Capital One account, and I am going to be disputing the date last paid, right? So we have three different dates for D last paid. So it's day one, D two, D three. Now I know exactly what I'm going to be disputing on this account. Perfect. Now we go on to the next step. And this can be a violation as well, it does not have to be you know, three different dates through different balances, it can actually be a violation even on round one. Pausing right there. One of the questions that are in my comments all the time is going to be Christian, I have absolutely no idea what to do. I put all of my inaccuracies and my violations in one letter. And now I have no idea what to dispute. Well, here's the deal, you can only put one reason 11111 unless I tell you otherwise, one reason per account per letter and a max of 10 account. Why? Because you're putting all your eggs in one basket. Again, this is not simple. This is something that's going to take you a little bit of time, and it has to be done the right way. Okay. And we're going to talk about that on step four. So again, make sure that you are staying because I'm going to give you a huge secret to removing this in addition to these four steps, okay, so you only want to be using one of those reasons. So you're going to craft a letter, a very, very simple letter, or you can use you know, privacy, law violations and all that kind of stuff. Just don't use like section 609 and blah, blah, blah. That's not what I'm talking about. Okay. But we're going to craft our dispute letter. And in our dispute letter, we are going to include Capital One, we're going to include our date last paid as our reason. And we're going to include our facts. So if you've seen any of my lives, my videos, my seminars, my masterminds, or have taken any of my courses, you know that I created the general formula, the general formula, this is another secret, it is a structure for a dispute reason that can literally remove virtually any negative item you like how I did that literally remove virtually any negative item. And it's because all we're doing is just plugging those, you know, facts taken directly from the credit report. And that's why step number one is so important, right? Where you're getting your credit report from, because you're not going to see the information that you need consistently each time you go when you pull that credit report, if you're not pulling it from one of these sites, okay? So on that 34th day, after you send your dispute out, I don't care if you are not sending it up certified or priority or you know, you fax it but don't have the transmission, you know, record whatever it's called, just count 34 days, unless you actually did send it in, you have the tracking and now you know, it needs to be 30 days after they received it. So 30 days after they received it, or 34 days after you sent that letter, pull a new report. So we need to find out if that account is still there. Right? That's number one. And number two, if any of the information has changed, if they've updated if they've deleted something if they've you know, whatever they did you need to know and we're looking for something very, very specific. And here my friend is going to be a secret. We are you going to be on step number four right now. Okay, so let me ask you a question. If you are disputing an account, do you know you're going to want to smash the like if you know the answer to this Do you know what you should be looking for in the comment section on your account? Right so it says like the balances the past use the high balances who the creditors. What are you looking for? In that comment section? Are you looking for it to say that it's true charge off. Are you looking for it to say it's past due? Are you looking? What are you looking for? If you know the answer, again, smash that like and make sure that you say, because I'm giving you the answer to this right now. So here's the deal. When you dispute an account, right, when you dispute any account, there is a statement that is required to be in that comment section within 30 days after they received your first dispute, right, either entered by the Bureau's or the creditor or the collector. And here is another little bit of a secret. Nine times out of 10, the Bureau's will put it in, you know, sometimes they don't I mean, I probably like six times out of 10, to be honest with you right? Now, the creditors and the collectors, however, they forget about that crap all the time, they have more things to do than to deal with your complaint letters. And that's exactly what a dispute letter is, right? And that's why the validation of debt or the debt validation method works so well for credit sweeps. Okay, so, anyways, just a little bit of food for thought there, because you may want to be disputing depending on what account type it is with them first, or immediately after, or whatever, depending on what type of account it is. So that's a different video for a different day. Okay. If that notice of dispute is not there, it's a violation of Section 623 of the FCRA. If you disputed with the collector, first, it is a violation of FDCPA 8078. Okay, so no matter who it is, it's going to be a violation if it's not there. And this is a very, very, very powerful violation, because it is literally the entire key to the credit sweep process. Right. So what we're going to do now is we are going to find our next best factual dispute, right. So if you started with data last paid, you can go to deal as active, you can, you know, go to date last reported and pausing there real quick date last reported. Another thing you should be aware of, is this date is supposed to be updated when they verify as accurate, right? If they don't update it, it means that they didn't do an investigation, and they're just lying to you to get you to go away. All right. So always be aware of what these dates and these terms and you know, all these different elements of your account what they mean, because that is how you're able to get these things off is by actually being educated about this process, so that you can use it to quickly get deletions, much quicker than disputing online much quicker than sending in a 609 letter that doesn't work anyways, and has nothing to do with contracts, you know, so on so forth, right? This is just one of the methods that I use personally for my clients. And that's why I'm able to teach you about it. Okay. So in step number four, where you're going to write a new letter, let me just get rid of some of this, some of this crap on here, okay, we're going to write a new letter. And in our letter, we're going to be doing two totally different things. And it's going to make sense pretty quickly. So, in our first paragraph, we're going to Well, there's really only one paragraph, but we are going to say whatever that whatever that factual inaccuracy was, we don't want to use two violations for this. You can do this two different ways you can put your inaccuracy at the top and down in where it says like Capital One account number, blah, blah, blah, delete because of violation, you can put it down there, or you can totally switch them, you can have the 623 violation up here. And you can have the factual dispute down here. It's completely up to you. It's your letter, it's going to do the exact same thing. But the reason that this is so powerful, is because if they don't want to remove it, because of the violation, we'll get them on inaccuracy. If they don't want to remember for the inaccuracy, we'll get them on the violation. All right, you always want to be number one, knowing more about the process than they think that you know, and number two, you want to ensure that you have the maximum capability to remove on that round. Okay, so, recap. One, pull your credit report with the proper site identity IQ, smart credit, my score IQ number two, categorically or by category, put all of your inaccuracies per each account into a pyramid. It doesn't even really have to be an actual pyramid, you can just be like, Okay, I found the accuracy and I found the violations and I found the deal is paid to do less active, the date less reported and you shouldn't have a notice of dispute. If it's your first round. Okay. Then write your factual dispute based on whatever your number one dispute reason is. All right. And then our very last step is to pull a new credit report 34 days later, or 30 days after they received it, the first one and check for that note Sub dispute if it's not there, they're in violation send out a new dispute letter using section 623 violation. So it would be delete this account for violation because you did not enter the required notice of dispute pursuant to section 623. You can even go on to say, which is required to be there within 30 days of the first dispute, okay. Now, that may make more sense, at least with me it does to put that information, the violation in that paragraph. And then in your disputed account, now, you're going to say, you know, whatever your number two violation is, okay? So you need an accuracy, your number two inaccuracy can be the date last, if you said date last paid, you can go deal as active or Visa date last paid, or excuse me date, less active, your date last paid, or you can date last reported, you have a lot to work with and are trying to knock this out as fast as possible. So that's why you always want to make sure that you are staying at that top of the hierarchy. Okay. Now, you can find more information about the hierarchy and how each of these elements work in my other videos, which again, there's 800 of them going back just about nine years now. But this works, because we're doing something very, very specific. We're doing something that was made for this system, we don't want to be working against the system, we want to be working with the system, but in our own way, okay. So it's completely up to you how you want to actually structure this letter, but the only thing that you should be caring about is a, that it has the violation, right? Because they didn't put that notice of dispute, and be that you're putting your next inaccuracy on there, just in case it doesn't work. Now, I'm going to give you a bonus tip here. What do you do? If you say, Hey, you're in violation of secondary IQ 23 level above? And they don't do anything about it? What do you do? If it's still there, on the next room, you wait another 30 days, you're like, hey, it's not gonna be there, blah, blah, blah, you go and pull it and it's still there. Or two weeks later, or even seven days later, they come back and they say, Hey, you know, it's verified as accurate when you know, for a fact it wasn't because you already proved that they're in violation? Well, you have a couple of options here. And I'm going to give you the best possible route that you can choose. So normally, and this is the wrong way to do it, consumers will go to the CFPB, the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau at this point. Now, yes, you can do that because you have a violation. But I don't personally do that until I've exhausted all of my remedies, right, which is exactly what you're supposed to do prior to taking it to that next step. So exhausting remedies. And you can look this up for administrative, it's administrative court proceedings and consumer credit and blah, blah, blah. But anyways, what it means is that you are doing everything possible with the Bureau's creditors and collectors prior to taking it to that next step, or the CFPB, the AG, the BBB, and the FTC. Okay. So the reason that you want to do this is because you want to build out a paper trail, you don't want to just send one report one letter or two reports and two letters, no, you want to have eight reports, you want to have eight letters, you want to have, you know, 20 different pieces of violations and proof that they didn't respond, they didn't change it, they didn't update it, they didn't correct it, they didn't do any of the things that they weren't that they were supposed to do. Well, you as the consumer did do what you were supposed to do. And this is going to help you to be able to remove that account, or accounts, if it comes to that point. And yes, this does mean that you have additional rounds, and you might go down here into the middle of this pyramid, but what it means that you're going to get a permanent deletion, it's not going to be suppressed for 30 days and come back, it's not going to you know, come back six months later, or a year later, no, you're going to get that sucker off. It's going to be permanent, you're going to be able to move on with your life. And it's because you took the time to do this the right way. Now, I say the right way, because you know, we use all these laws, and we use these case law and violations and lawsuits and all that kind of stuff. But where does that stuff come from? It came from someone going and doing what they were supposed to do and taking it to that level and actually exhausting their remedies to be able to get it heard by the courts go to the Appellate Division and all that kind of stuff, Federal Court all whatever it takes to actually do all those lawsuits and all that kind of stuff, right? It wasn't where they sent one letter and their negative items came off and there was no violation and all these things happened, right? No, they went and did exactly what they were supposed to do so that you were able to hear that what they put out in public. Okay. So what this means for you is, do you have the ability to get things off, which is four steps, absolutely. One route Absolutely. In 30 days, absolutely. For five days. Absolutely. Is it going to work for every single person? Absolutely not. And if I were standing here telling you that then I'd be 300% bullshit and I am not if I'm Um, a lot of things, but I'm not bullshitting. Okay. So these four steps will help you to remove any of those accounts. And again, you must pull your credit report from the right place to be able to utilize this process. Because if you don't, then you're not going to have consistent information, you're not going to have the right information and without the right information, you will not be able to remove your negatives. Okay? And again, if this is all confusing, and you have no idea what I'm talking about it about dates and paid, the less active, the less reported, and what the heck is this? And why is there scribbling over here? And what is this pyramid over here? That's cool. Use this link right here in my seven forty.com, I'll do all this for you, right, of course, I have courses and all that kind of stuff. But hey, you know what, removing negative items from your credit report is not easy. Obviously, I wouldn't be able to make 800 videos about this, if it were and you know, sometimes you just need a little bit of help. And you know, you want to go with the right company. And you know, like someone who doesn't take away your basic consumer rights to see what you pay for, meaning get your copies of the seats, but anywho, you need to help us that link. Otherwise, I have a ton of resources, even down here in the description of this live right now, that will help you learn exactly what you need to know to remove these things from your credit report, right. And while there are more than just four steps, you can use it rinse and repeat, rinse and repeat, rinse and repeat. Okay, there's very specific information that you should be looking for. And unless you know these pieces of information that you should be looking for, then you probably won't be able to remove those accounts. And again, you don't ever want to have to go down here or down here because your likelihood of deletion is going to drop, right? So if you learn something new Smash that Like, if you didn't learn something new, then it means that you've been paying attention and you've been either following me or someone who actually knows a little bit about something, right. So I'm gonna end this here. I have files that I had to do gotta put the kids to sleep and I actually want to read a book tonight. So I will see you tomorrow. Tonight, we talked about the four steps that you can use to remove virtually any negative item from your credit report. And that my friend, is it so I'm gonna hit this x now and I will see you later. Bye Transcribed by https://otter.ai



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