Formula to Remove Virtually ANY Charge-off from Credit Report Using FACTS

🔮 Today I'm sharing the formula to remove virtually any charge-off from a credit report using FACTS taken directly from the account. If you would like to download the presentation PDF, head to https://bio.my740.com and click on "Free DL's" and choose How to Remove Charge-offs. We're using the AJERO Formula, which resulted in over 20k deletions in 2020 and 23k+ in 2021. This most definitely works when it's used the right way and you remain persistent and patient. These videos are created to help you learn how to dispute a credit report with the credit sweep method legally and permanently. No illegal tactics are used and no templates are used. ✨ Check out all 3 credit reports and scores with the same credit monitoring I show in my videos and use for my clients with IdentityIQ: ✨ https://member.identityiq.com/help-you-to-save-money.aspx?offercode=431134PT 🧙‍♀️ GET HELP WITH YOUR CREDIT JOURNEY DIY awesome free tools, tutorials and downloads - https://vault.my740.com 🦸‍♀️ DFY credit sweep service free consultation 🦸‍♀️ https://my740.com Let's jump on a call and see if I can help! ⭐️ Video notes: Hey, what's up tonight we're talking about how to remove charge offs from your credit report for beginners using advanced tactics. Now, before you start thinking that this is going to be some sort of convoluted, like really hard to understand type of deal, I've broken it down to make it really, really simple. So what we're going to do is we're not going to overthink this, we're just going to start deconstructing the accounts one by one looking for the following information that I'm going to give you. And for you to understand that the majority of deletions and corrections come from disputes that contain nothing but facts, right? And that's what factual disputing is. Okay? So let's look at we're going to do and this is what I call credit crunch time. Okay, so we're going to find the reason that our account doesn't belong. So I've broken this down to make it a little bit simple, but I have an example account here with Capital One. And as you can see, in my other videos, what I'm looking for is basically the thing that does not belong. Okay, as you can see on this one, this one, the comments don't say that it's been disputed, but Experian does say it's been disputed. Equifax does not say it's been disputed. We have two different years in the day or is active we have, you know, missing information in the date last paid, we don't have complete payment history. There's a lot to look for here, right. But how do you know what to look for? Well, like I said, I've made this a little bit easier to consume. So let's take a look at this section right here that says big ideas. So what you want to do is take a look at your entire account. Are there different balances or dates between all bureaus? If yes, start there. Look at the payment history, does it show charge off or late payments more than one month for late payments after the account was closed? If yes, start there. Now, just to clarify, when I say late payments in the payment history, more than one I'm talking about after the account was closed, because there should not be any activity after the account was closed. Okay. And if it says charged off, obviously the account is closed. Okay. So look at the deal is active and the date last paid? Are you seeing different dates by yours? If yes, you want to start there? And I'm going top to bottom. So if one of these does meet it, but something else doesn't, and that's where you want to start? Okay. Was it disputed before? If yes, check the comments section for the notice of dispute. If it's missing start there. Now, take a look at this account. Remember I said that TransUnion does not show the notice a dispute in the comment section but Experian does it says consumer statement disputed by consumer. Now this person made a mistake, they should not have put a consumer statement saying that it's been disputed because now you can't get the Bureau's for the missing notice of dispute. And it also says our here account was in dispute now resolved reported by subscribers. So Experian is not in violation, but the other two bureaus are okay. This is very, very important. Section 623 states that the account must be reported within 30 days from the date that it was received as disputed. So was a disputed before if yes, check the date last reported for an updated date. If not, they did not investigate that account and lied and said it was verified as accurate. If it had been verified as accurate, that date would have been updated to a recent date. And it would have been obviously changed, right? So because they didn't do that. I take it as them not having investigated they count. So we're gonna take three of these things. So we're taking our top three ideas, and we're going to list them right here. Idea number one is notice of dispute. *I may receive compensation for external links, such as IdentityIQ