Maximizing deletions:
Let's take a look at the difference and results between disputing your derogatory accounts with the credit bureaus vs disputing with all available parties (credit bureaus, creditors, collections) and the time frames. We also have a difference between how these items are disputed: templates & using laws vs "free-hand".
The wrong way:
What's sad is that most credit repair companies use the old credit repair 101 techinique: disputing with the credit bureaus using templates. Most of the time, it's by using credit repair software, where they've stored templates and just insert your info with generic "reasons": i.e. account not mine, never late, etc. Guess what this says about you? "I'm working with a credit repair company" and your dispute letters will go into "pile 2" (the one they just ignore). Even if YOU are the one that's writing them, if it looks like you're just being irresponsible and trying to take advantage of the law to get rid of debt, it'll be ignored.
Most of these companies hardly charge anything. Why? Because they're not DOING anything!
This is how it works:
You sign up with them
More than likely they'll ask for you to sign up with privacyguard.com
Your credit report and info will be uploaded to their dispute software (such as disputesuit.com, creditrepaircloud.com, creditrepairmoneymachine.com)
They'll mark the items with reasons (see above)
They'll find a dispute letter in their library and click on enter
Boom, your dispute is generated
Total time: 5 mins set up and 20 second letter generation
Total time per month: 5 minutes to mark the accounts as remaining and 20 seconds to generate a new letter
Timeframe: 12+ months
The right way:
If there's a wrong way to do something, obviously, there's a right way to do it. The correct manner to maximize deletions is by taking the time to dispute factual information on your credit report and attack everyone: bureaus, creditors and collection agencies. I take it even futher and make complaints with the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, attorney general, BBB, FTC, HIPPA (when appropriate) and even distribute press releases. (see my video on deleting charge-offs using factual information from your credit report at youtube.com/expertcreditsweeps).
Timeframe: 6 months
There shouldn't be ANY generic disputes. Each "reason" should have factual info taken from your report. If an account states you owe $100 and you disagree, you state "balance of $100 is incorrect; please send proof that this balance is right" or something along those lines according to your situation. You want to justify everything. The word "because" is really strong. If you call in to work and tell your boss you're going to be late, they'll ask why. If you call into work and tell them you're going to be late because you had to drop your son off at daycare first, they say ok (because you told them why something occurred or why it's important).
You do NOT want to use law-heavy disputes, templates or bother with hand-written letters. Just pull up your default program, generate a letter that simply describes your reason for writing (i.e. I pulled my credit report at work yesterday and noticed you're reporting me as late for ....), because you're just a regular consumer with a real issue and need help. Simple.
Additionally, you want to dispute with your orignal creditors (don't do it if it's a credit card and it's still open) using a 623 TEMPLATE. Don't bother going through the trouble of creating one like you did with the bureaus. Send it out a few days AFTER your bureau disputes go out. Why? Because section 623 states that you must FIRST dispute with the bureaus. It doesn't state that there's a specific timeframe in between (as far as I know) and you did exactly that! There will be a section that says [enter dispute reason] and the rest is already written out for you.
Lastly (for the disputes), you'll want to attack your collections. Now, you may want to watch my video "Be Careful with VOD" first, because there's companies and account types you do NOT want to use this on.
DO use it on:
Medical
Utility
Cell phones (don't bother with Verizon - 99% of the time they're listed as charge-off, not a collection, and it wouldn't work anyways)
Storage
etc. non-credit card/banking/finance related collections
Do NOT use it on:
credit card collections that are truly known or reporting accurately
repos
foreclosures
banking/finance/loans, etc.
COMPLAINTS:
Another way to expedite your disputes is to make complaints.
Consumer Financial Protection Bureau: consumerfinance.gov
Attorney General: look up the address to the creditor and make the complaint with their local/regional office
FTC: using this for fraud
BBB: against creditors and buraus
HIPPA: may be used when a collection agency sends docs with sensitive or confidential information in the mail to you that you did not authorize specifically for them to possess to distribute
This is a very effective tool for you to use once you've found violations with either the FCRA or FDCPA (or other federal acts). This may expedite the process for you, while also holding the creditors/collection agencies/credit bureaus accountable. Otherwise, they'll conintue to violate your rights and treat you as if you're stupid, right?
If you have any questions or require further assistance, it's fast and easy to schedule your FREE 30 min. consultation! Simply go to: https://live.vcita.com/site/expertcreditsweeps
Let's take a look at the difference and results between disputing your derogatory accounts with the credit bureaus vs disputing with all available parties (credit bureaus, creditors, collections) and the time frames. We also have a difference between how these items are disputed: templates & using laws vs "free-hand".
The wrong way:
What's sad is that most credit repair companies use the old credit repair 101 techinique: disputing with the credit bureaus using templates. Most of the time, it's by using credit repair software, where they've stored templates and just insert your info with generic "reasons": i.e. account not mine, never late, etc. Guess what this says about you? "I'm working with a credit repair company" and your dispute letters will go into "pile 2" (the one they just ignore). Even if YOU are the one that's writing them, if it looks like you're just being irresponsible and trying to take advantage of the law to get rid of debt, it'll be ignored.
Most of these companies hardly charge anything. Why? Because they're not DOING anything!
This is how it works:
You sign up with them
More than likely they'll ask for you to sign up with privacyguard.com
Your credit report and info will be uploaded to their dispute software (such as disputesuit.com, creditrepaircloud.com, creditrepairmoneymachine.com)
They'll mark the items with reasons (see above)
They'll find a dispute letter in their library and click on enter
Boom, your dispute is generated
Total time: 5 mins set up and 20 second letter generation
Total time per month: 5 minutes to mark the accounts as remaining and 20 seconds to generate a new letter
Timeframe: 12+ months
The right way:
If there's a wrong way to do something, obviously, there's a right way to do it. The correct manner to maximize deletions is by taking the time to dispute factual information on your credit report and attack everyone: bureaus, creditors and collection agencies. I take it even futher and make complaints with the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, attorney general, BBB, FTC, HIPPA (when appropriate) and even distribute press releases. (see my video on deleting charge-offs using factual information from your credit report at youtube.com/expertcreditsweeps).
Timeframe: 6 months
There shouldn't be ANY generic disputes. Each "reason" should have factual info taken from your report. If an account states you owe $100 and you disagree, you state "balance of $100 is incorrect; please send proof that this balance is right" or something along those lines according to your situation. You want to justify everything. The word "because" is really strong. If you call in to work and tell your boss you're going to be late, they'll ask why. If you call into work and tell them you're going to be late because you had to drop your son off at daycare first, they say ok (because you told them why something occurred or why it's important).
You do NOT want to use law-heavy disputes, templates or bother with hand-written letters. Just pull up your default program, generate a letter that simply describes your reason for writing (i.e. I pulled my credit report at work yesterday and noticed you're reporting me as late for ....), because you're just a regular consumer with a real issue and need help. Simple.
Additionally, you want to dispute with your orignal creditors (don't do it if it's a credit card and it's still open) using a 623 TEMPLATE. Don't bother going through the trouble of creating one like you did with the bureaus. Send it out a few days AFTER your bureau disputes go out. Why? Because section 623 states that you must FIRST dispute with the bureaus. It doesn't state that there's a specific timeframe in between (as far as I know) and you did exactly that! There will be a section that says [enter dispute reason] and the rest is already written out for you.
Lastly (for the disputes), you'll want to attack your collections. Now, you may want to watch my video "Be Careful with VOD" first, because there's companies and account types you do NOT want to use this on.
DO use it on:
Medical
Utility
Cell phones (don't bother with Verizon - 99% of the time they're listed as charge-off, not a collection, and it wouldn't work anyways)
Storage
etc. non-credit card/banking/finance related collections
Do NOT use it on:
credit card collections that are truly known or reporting accurately
repos
foreclosures
banking/finance/loans, etc.
COMPLAINTS:
Another way to expedite your disputes is to make complaints.
Consumer Financial Protection Bureau: consumerfinance.gov
Attorney General: look up the address to the creditor and make the complaint with their local/regional office
FTC: using this for fraud
BBB: against creditors and buraus
HIPPA: may be used when a collection agency sends docs with sensitive or confidential information in the mail to you that you did not authorize specifically for them to possess to distribute
This is a very effective tool for you to use once you've found violations with either the FCRA or FDCPA (or other federal acts). This may expedite the process for you, while also holding the creditors/collection agencies/credit bureaus accountable. Otherwise, they'll conintue to violate your rights and treat you as if you're stupid, right?
If you have any questions or require further assistance, it's fast and easy to schedule your FREE 30 min. consultation! Simply go to: https://live.vcita.com/site/expertcreditsweeps
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